Good morning gorgeous,
An extra newsletter for an extra-special day! Today my debut book, How To Be Fabulous, is out in Australia & New Zealand. It’s all rather surreal knowing my little book baby is now out there on shop shelves. But rather than blabbing on about how that feels, I thought I’d treat you, dear readers to a snippet of what’s to come.
A big part of my style philosophy is indeed honing a capsule collection. A term that’s been around since the 1940s, often a capsule collection is showcased as a string of basic clothes, usually aimed to emulate the wardrobe of a chic Parisian. Whilst I love this look as much as the next person, I believe in curating a capsule closet to suit you and your specific style.
Please enjoy the below excerpt, and get your copy of How To Be Fabulous at your favourite book shop, or order online here (note that the book is currently only available in Australia & NZ).
xx Charlotte
What makes a fabulous wardrobe? There are all kinds of elements which will impact how you approach what you wear: your own level of finesse, your financial situation, even the city you live in or how your peers dress. There are passing trends, fashion fads and overt statements in the zeitgeist that are hard to ignore. Yet at its core a great wardrobe is about having a set of key pieces to pull from plus caring for and curating your clothes properly. These three elements are the foundations everyone needs to master in order to build a unique and gorgeous wardrobe.
Pillar one: Key pieces and the capsule
In my opinion, every vintage fashionista should strive for a classic capsule wardrobe. A well-curated capsule wardrobe is all about looking stylish with fewer items. The capsule concept has been around since the 1940s, and in recent times it has been revived.
Decluttering has become fashionable; we tend to live in smaller homes yet have more stuff to pick through, plus many of us now live as creative nomads (including myself, from time to time).
Sustainability has also increased in importance due to the climate crisis. The time to embrace the capsule is now.
The aim of this concept is to have a small number of key pieces – tops, trousers, outerwear and so on – that go together and can be worn in multiple ways to create a large number of outfits. Essentially I’m using the term capsule here to describe a foundational wardrobe which you can add to. Whether you’re a highly curated minimalist or a wildly bohemian maximalist, it’s important to have some high-quality core items from which to structure your outfits.
There are certain key items that make any wardrobe sizzle. Regardless of your figure, finesse or lifestyle, I highly recommend you seek out these following foundation pieces.
A cosy coat
Let’s start with the outer shell: a perfect, cosy winter coat. A coat is your armour against the world. The right coat will move you through nippy days and long, cold nights – and may even act as an emergency blanket if, say, you nod off on a friend’s sofa after too much champagne. A good coat pulls together and frames any outfit.
The trick to finding your dream winter coat is in seeking a combination of colour, cut and quality that is perfect for you.
You want something that works with the rest of your closet, so it likely needs to be in a neutral hue that will naturally combine with the rest of your clothes – think camel, grey, blue or black. (Vibrant colours can be saved for more experimental outwear added into the mix after you’ve curated your capsule.) Search for high-quality fabrics simply by spying an item’s garment tag on the inside seam. What you’re looking for is a good blend of preferably natural fibres such as wool or cotton, and preferably a silk lining to allow your body to breathe.
When shopping for a second-hand coat, look over your item for signs of wear. Do your best to try it on, or at least get the
measurements, to make sure it fits well across your shoulders and that the sleeves hit your wrists in the right place. Length and style are up to you and your fashion manifesto. Your coat will be an investment and a garment you’ll be wearing a lot, so make sure it’s one you are head-over-heels for.
My own favourite coat is a vintage 1980s-does-1940s number. The exterior is a warm, classic, camel, cashmere wool and the lining an elegant, taupe silk. The cut is roomy and lengthy, with commanding shoulders large enough to accommodate almost anything underneath. It goes with most of my wardrobe, and
I scored it for a song from an op shop in rural Tasmania!
A trench coat
Second to the cosy coat is the trench coat. A trench coat will act as your trans-seasonal saviour through all sorts of weather. They make anyone look elegant, so they’re great for days you’re feeling a little less-than. Fabulous for travelling, trench coats are also a brilliant way of looking pulled together at a chaotic airport before a long-haul flight. Basically they act as an added layer of chic protection, regardless of the weather or environment. Not to mention they suit everybody, regardless of shape or gender.
Now I’m still saving for the perfect vintage Burberry version, but am quite content with the second-hand Carla Zampatti oversized trench that I found in a gorgeous designer resale store in Sydney.
A statement scarf
Sadly I’m not one of those European doyennes who know how to wear a scarf seven ways (yet), but I will say this: a statement scarf is an effortless style secret you can pop on whenever you need a boost.
A well-chosen scarf can be cute, chic and/or cosy. Scarves are the perfect way to showcase your personal style and add a pop of colour or pattern to any ensemble. You might find that your winter closet is largely made up of dark colours, but with the addition of a scarf you can boost your palette with, say, a flutter of pink.
Just make sure your scarf is in a colour that suits you and never looks limp – nobody likes limp anything, including limp scarves. I urge you to be a scarf size queen. Think voluptuous thoughts as you rifle through the scarf tables at vintage markets or in boutiques – always go for big and buxom. A larger scarf packs a proper punch, can be used as a wrap when the moment calls for it and is actually more versatile than a smaller version. The more fabric you have to play with the more kinds of different knots and folds you can create around your neck (you can ask a French fashionista for tips on that).
In saying that, there is something especially elegant about a classic silk square scarf. If you are after one of these I suggest investing in one from a classic design house – preferably Hermès (which can often be bought at auction for a small percentage of the original price; more on auction houses in Chapter 7) – but any 100 per cent silk scarf that is beautifully designed should work a charm.
My favourite scarf is a pretty silk foulard I found at Urzì Vintage in the back streets of Brera, Milan. The scarf is from the 1970s and showcases a beautiful palette of pale pinks, blues and taupes, wrapped together with a midnight-blue border. It was also a fair price and sold by the most fabulous vendors (grazie mille Lisa e Fabio!).
Chic sunglasses
Perfect for being seen or remaining anonymous, a chic pair of sunglasses can make you feel like a film star in five seconds.
When hunting for vintage spectacles, make sure they’re in good nick. Once a pair of sunglasses goes beyond the brink it’s hard to bring them back to life. If the arms are feeling weak or stretched, the glass is scratched or they’re sitting wonkily over your nose, they’re not the sunglasses for you. A flimsy frame that might fly off your face will never offer the comfort you need to look elegant while wearing them.
If in doubt it pays to go to those in the know: there are actually vintage dealers who specialise in second-hand frames as well as brands who make sustainable reproduction sunglasses (you can find some of my recommendations for these kinds of vendors in the directory at the back of the book).
My favourite vintage sunglasses score was a 1970s deadstock design by Yves Saint Laurent. I found them in the depths of Etsy over ten years ago, andI still have them. Their oversized cat-eye shape and caramel hue make them all the better for seeing you with (and seeing me in)!
Dream shoes
Your dream shoe could be a sneaker; for another a ballet flat.
For me it’s a classic pump. When pinpointing the kind of shoe you need, think back to your outfit ensembles – what do they need to be completed? Strive for something classic and comfortable, a style you can imagine your style icons running around in. Whatever it is, your dream shoe is an essential wardrobe investment.
Decent vintage shoes are hard to find, more so now we tend to be a lot bigger in the foot department than yesteryear (as you know I wear a size 39.5 – I just wish I had the height to match!). I can’t wear vintage shoes due to my contemporary-sized feet, but I still think vintage shoes are things of beauty and occasionally I buy them to decorate my boudoir with. As for shoes for myself to don, as you know I often opt for second-hand.
My best second-hand-shoe find was a fabulous pair of Jimmy Choo pumps from a favourite consignment shoe store, Pelle Shoes, in Sydney’s Paddington. Bought for a total bargain via the shop’s Instagram, they soon became part of my creative nomad capsule when I lived between Italy, New Zealand and Los Angeles for six months. What made them so versatile was the beautiful forest green colour, the classic design and the fact they were actually rather comfortable for an 8-inch heel. I could wear them with opaque tights or bare legs, during the day or after dark, to work or to play, and all around the world at that.
Tailored trousers
Trousers needn’t just be a boring necessity. They’re a staple that will take you from one environment to the next with ease and elegance. For your capsule they’re ideal in a dark neutral colour (for me it’s always black), yet a well-cut trouser can also radiate when worn in a more vibrant hue for an eye-catching statement (perhaps as a second pair beyond your core collection).
In terms of style I personally prefer a pedal pusher, but you might like a relaxed slack. Again, find your groove and go for it. The trick is simply to focus on cut and quality, regardless of your favoured design. Do this by trying on as many styles as possible, knowing your measurements and adhering to your fashion mantra.
Check for fabulous fabrics and well-fitted seams. If there’s any puckering or billowing at all it’s off to the tailor with you, or on to the next pair. Look for quality: these pants are soon to be part of your capsule wardrobe and need to be well made. Once you’ve found your match it’s time to dress them up, dress them down and take them around the town. Trousers are innately versatile – in your perfect trouser you can go to work as easily as you can go away for the weekend.
I love a 1960s pedal pusher and have found a few fabulous pairs in my time. It seems to me that the best version of this style came out of the States (as a result many of the best vintage versions still reside there). So hop online or on a plane (or in the car if you happen to be local) and go vintage shopping in America for some seriously slick vintage trousers – my best pair were sourced from a store in Los Angeles.
A classic shirt
Well, you weren’t exactly going to wear your tailored trousers with nothing on top, were you? (If you were, more power to you.)
A simple, understated shirt is one of those rare items that looks seriously good on everyone – whatever their age, gender or body type. In finding the right shirt opt for simplicity: a simple cut (whether that’s tailored or boxy is down to your personal fashion manifesto), a simple fabric (ideally cotton) and a pared-back style.
It’s also a good idea to pay attention to the state of the buttons – any buttons that feel a little loose will need to be reinforced, either by you, an obliging family member (for me it’s my mum) or the repairs service at your local dry-cleaner.
My secret trick: head to the menswear section of your preferred second-hand store to find the very best vintage shirt. Any vintage business that offers menswear will have an endless supply of elegant shirts that are far less picked-over than what you’ll find in the womenswear section. I discovered this trick when I bought a vintage shirt for a boyfriend and then – ahem – accidentally took it home and put it in my wardrobe instead. Funny how that happens, isn’t it?
A timeless handbag
A beautiful bag is a non-negotiable key piece for any fashionista’s wardrobe – and worth every cent of your investment. Vintage happens to be an ideal avenue for finding exquisite designer bags for a bargain.
A decent handbag will last forever and always look chic. Buying one when you’re a bit more flush will mean that, in times when you’re a little low on funds, you will have a piece of eternal style on your shoulder regardless.
The key with bags, as per the rest of your capsule, is to go classic. Try to avoid ostentatious logos or tacky trends here. Handbags are often where people go really wrong with fashion; it’s where being a slave to trends can eclipse serious style. You also don’t want to spend a small fortune on something that is soon to be yesterday’s news.
As much as I would love a deliciously pink Gucci Jackie bag, I know that my understated Marni bag in pristine black leather – not vintage but vintage-style, and bought for a bargain at the designer’s outlet in Italy – is much more elegant and wearable.
Darling delicates
As important as it is to don supportive underwear that works with your clothes, it is just as important to have at least one perfect lingerie set. We’ll chat about supportive undergarments later, but until then I want you to take your mind elsewhere.
Think: what is the lingerie that makes you feel your most alluring? For you it could be a pair of nonchalant white briefs and no bra, or a frilly froufrou French lingerie set that resembles a powder puff. The point is, it’s an outfit. And when you’re rolling into bed with someone (or you’re alone) and want to feel your most sex-kittenish, you need your outfit to be as divine as possible.
Your choice of lingerie ties into body image as well. Over the years I have had many struggles accepting my own shape with its lumps, bumps and puckers. Because my life has included some bouts of serious illness, accidents and a lot of time in hospital, I have some pretty prominent surgery scars on my body. When I do strip off I can feel very vulnerable baring these marks.
However, in the right pair of knickers and a fabulous bra or basque I can feel transformed into a modern-day pin up. We all have our own version of this outfit that frees us from our doubts about our body and makes us feel sexy; I urge you to find your equivalent then put it on to get it on!
I will also say here that, although I love vintage with every cell of my being, when it comes to embracing second-hand knickers, that is pushing even my devotion. Aside from the previously described deadstock gem from Lisbon – my ultimate second-hand underwear score – I draw the line at preloved underwear.
A signature scent
Having a fragrance that people recognise you by might feel a bit passé. With so many heavenly scents available on the market, it’s hard to pick just one perfume. I’m not saying you need to do that exactly. However, I feel this is a trend that has come full circle.
I think having a signature scent is the embodiment of elegance. It keeps things simple and gives you a base on which to build; and sticking to a core scent means all of your clothes will smell the same. You don’t want a conflicting concoction of musks and florals scenting various items of clothing in your closet; instead you want a well-designed fragrance people will come to know you for. Yes, it’s fun to splash out and wear a surprising new scent now and then, but why not try to find your own everyday flavour for the rest of the time?
Fragrance is the magical finishing touch that any good outfit needs. Even though it’s technically invisible, it somehow makes you look better – you stand taller and attract more people. Just remember not to overdo it: when you douse yourself with juice, you want people to take in that fragrance as they hug you or kiss you on
the cheek, not as soon as you enter the room.
When you find the scent that’s meant for you, you’ll know it. The trick is to source something that mixes well with your skin, hormones and sweat. Keep on spritzing and I can assure you that you will get there. Scent is such a primal thing, and when done right there are few things quite so seductive and confidence-boosting.
My signature scent: Chanel No 5. What can I say? I’m old-fashioned.
© Charlotte Dallison for Affirm Press, 2023